Phokeethra Country Club

While the course may exact a heavy price in terms of lost balls for high-handicappers, it's more than worth it, although even better players are advised to ensure they have some extra balls on hand given the extend to which the water intrudes upon the carpet-like paspalum fairways. For most of us, teeing off from the whites is to be recommended.

While water remains an ever-present threat, there's plenty of variety over the 18 holes, and it's important not to let the fairly sedate par-4 opener lure you into a false sense of security, with the course starting to show its teeth at the par-5 2nd. Here, the fairway snakes between water and two utterly huge bunkers, meaning you have to carefully plot your way to the green and execute three accurate shots if you want to putting in regulation.

Your tee shot at the first short hole, the par-3 3rd must clear the palm trees en route to a green surrounded on three sides by deep bunkers, while another six sand traps means there's danger at every turn on the 5th, which doglegs around an attractive lake.

The 7th features an unusual split fairway offering two routes to the green - you can either take the easy option off the tee and leave a tough approach over water, or thread your ball through the trees to the right side, where water is less of a threat on approach by a large bunker in front of the putting surface comes into play. Pick your poison.

The 8th is another bunker heavy S-shaped hole with water both sides, and if you're unlucky you might find even the perfect drive leaves you with no direct route to the green given an awkwardly-placed palm tree, while the 618-yard 9th requires two water carries, with a classic risk-reward proposition on your second shot.

If at the turn you happen to be experiencing any fleeting pangs of guilt at playing golf when there are such magnificent ancient sites to be seen in the area, the course provides one of its own, in the form of the restored 11th century 'Roluh' bridge between the 9th green and 10th tee, which is also used as the club's logo. This doesn't, however, signal the slackening of the challenge as the back nine isn't any easier than the front.

A long tree right in the centre of the 10th fairway must have been the source of frustration for thousands of golfers who hit an otherwise perfect drive, and while the par-4 11th is driveable for long hitters, a series of huge bunkers should make you think twice before taking on the challenge.

The par-5 13th is a right-angle dogleg requiring two water carries, a series of palm trees reducing the opportunities for cutting any corners, while finding the bunker that sits right in the middle of the 15th fairway will make it almost impossible to reach the lakeside green in regulation. 

Probably the pick of the holes is the signature 18th, a short but challenging par 4 that doglegs around one of the largest bunkers on the course. Even from the centre of the fairway, you'll be left with a tough approach over water into a green guarded by a trio of deep bunkers, a fitting end to a tough but memorable round.

One nice touch here is that the scorecard features a diagram of each green, split into six lettered sections so your caddy can tell you in which one the flag is located. To be honest you're gonna be grateful for any little help you get round here, as it really is tough to score well with the course seeming to home in on and punish you for any flaw in your game. The caddies are pretty helpful, so it's worth taking their advice on board.

Away from the course itself, Phokeethra Country Club boasts five star facilities, with separate pitching and putting greens, which you are advised to make full use of before venturing you reach the 1st tee. Unfortunately there isn't a driving range, although there are a couple of nets available. The locker rooms are decent, featuring teak lockers, and the pro shop fully stocked with all the latest gear.

The clubhouse itself has the feel of a private club, and the terrace is a great place to unwind after a round or simply tuck into a meal at the onsite restaurant, which serves a decent selection of Western, Khmer and Asian favourites.